Here is what I ended up with at the end of the Reedy Race. I started with my normal setup, but I wasn’t on pace where I should have been. I then put Cody King’s setup on that he was running. I made just a few changes and it felt really good. Excited to try it at different tracks.
Awesome, thanks Jared! I ran most of Cody’s setup last night. I went to the front shock location last week when Svennsen was at my local track and really liked that as well as the narrow rear pivot. I havent tried that rear arm setup and link location but I will now. I run the new lighter chassis with all the screws in, and it provides some pretty good flex. That new piston combo is pretty unique as well as the oil. Do you think 1.6s all around would be similar, thats what I have on me right now.
Thanks again for sharing all of this with us.
All that setup sharing and info is aaaawesome! Thank you for that!
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I noticed on your set up sheet you are running the RB6 gullwing arms. Are you planning to stick with those arms for awhile?
I’m planning on trying this setup at some different tracks
What is the advantage of the gull wing RB6 arms verses the flat RB5 arms?
Thanks for the reply
Not really too sure yet. I’ve always felt the gull wing arms jumped much better. I’ve struggled with corner exit with them though. I’ve got a better base starting point now. At OCRC I was struggling with forward bite with my normal setup.
Got it. I have noticed that my RB6 can get loose when exiting a turn. Of course a lot of things could cause this to happen but thought the gull wing arms might help with rear traction when exiting corners.
I would think 1.6 pistons with 30/25 would be comparable to 1.5 27.5/22.5. Jared, what do you think? I only have 1.6 pistons and would like to try this setup soon. Our indoor track really lacks grip and I have also struggled with exit grip and have been running flat arms..
Yeah that should work. I would start with 30/25 like you said
Jared, when you say ” I’ve always felt the gull wing arms jumped much better.”, what exactly do you mean? Jump higher/further? Flatter?
Thanks, gonna try this setup next time out.
Where do you get your chassis tape?
I noticed you ran the shortest link possible in the rear. Was that to counter the gull arms not being as free? I would think a little bit of a longer link would give more rear traction if needed on your setup.
Actually it’s not the shortest. Hole 4 on the hub is the most outside hole on the hub. I had never ran my link in 2/4 before, but it worked good.
Awesome. Thanks, Jared.
FYI – if anyone is trying to view the PDF on an iPad/iPhone and are finding the data fields to all be blank, just install the free Adobe Reader app, choose “Open in…” from your browser, and open it in Adobe Reader. Everything will work and you’ll be able to store the PDF there for later reference.
Hi Jared, I have a couple questions about the center motor guard and removing the screws through the chassis. Did you do a back to back with those screws and what did you feel? I took those screws out and was flexing the chassis in my hands and can definitely feel a difference. But my motor comes very close to my ESC, enough to concern me. Have you considered using a center shaft from the tranny case to the chassis (ie. Centro) to retain the front/rear stiffness while gaining side flex? I have one cobbled together and will try it out next time I get to the track.
I’m curious to what his layout changed to. If it went like Cody then they used a retainer to push the battery back.
We be nice if Kyosho came out with a MM specific chassis that allowed you to run a sideways pack or saddles side by side. That seems the way to go for the best weight distribution.
My layout was the same as the worlds. Servo, small gap, battery, speedo
I did not do a back to back test. I haven’t tried a turnbuckle brace like the AE car. With the brace still on the car, it shouldn’t flex enough to have the speedo and motor touch.
Jason Dias has the track record in 17.5 with a pretty crazy setup on his RB6. You can see by the pics how he did his layout. He’s using servo tape and battery tape to secure the battery, which should enable you to put it anywhere.
I meant to include “…at OCRC…” in that post.
Jared, I ran everything on your reedy race setup except the shorty pack.. I had a saddle pack since our track is kind of loose and I thought it would help with grip. however, the car kept rotating out turns. Will switching to the shorty make that big of a difference??
I don’t think a saddle would make it feel like that.
I only ran 1 battery at smac trac for the JC race and my car had a similar feel. I need to and will be doing more testing with this setup before cactus.
Right now, I’m 1/8 mode, but I will post a setup update when I go back and test my RB6.
Sorry I cannot help right now.
Hi Jared, i noticed in your setup u didn’t mention which caster blocks u used as well as if they were in the in or out position?
Sorry. I ran 0 and inside with standard RB6 axle
could you add what caster block you used it does not mention it on the set up sheet
Jared, I ended up shifting the saddle packs to the back and went to a stiffer rear spring. It helped keep my car planted. I was surprised a stiffer rear spring would help with rear traction in dusty conditions with a mid motor car. What is the best setup option to look at with a mm car to keep it from over rotating in dusty conditions? My car felt great with the changes I made. Just looking for other options and to always go faster 🙂
Try less aggressive front tires. That is what I use to tune steering with MM. I prefer shorty to saddles. I feel like Jared’s layout has the best balance. Having weight or a lot if rear weight won’t mean increased traction. It can actually reduce it on some occasion I’ve felt.
Yes tires is key too. In dusty condition, tread height is very important.
I agree with the weight thing. Sometimes more weight doesn’t mean more grip.
I am running d in and d in. In theory, Would going to a wider rear block be better or worse for a low grip track?
Wider makes it looser on throttle but as anything it could fix issues. I don’t want to speak for JT but a wider rear should less squiggly feeling on straights and not locked in as much in the rear. If you dial in too much grip you’ll get a lot of snapping loose conditions. If you like to power slide then the narrow should be ok, but if you are smooth and prefer to round corners I think a wider would work.
I did a lot if testing putting a lot of rear end roll and it came to a point where the rear end started to feel lazy and created a snap loose feeling.
Yeah sometimes if the rear is too soft , it will take grip away. I’m still learning a lot with MM. The best option is tough to say. I did some minor testing the other day, and learned something, but I need about 10 hours of testing time to really try stuff.
I went to A,A rear bushing, inside hole on tower and rear arm, with a gold spring. Also went back to inside on the rear inner ball stud. Also went to 1 degree anti squat. It felt better, but still not great.
Dusty conditions are tough deal with, because grip is inconsistent.
Jared, have you tried running wider hangers and drilling a hole in the rear arm to keep the inner position so the shock position isn’t sacrificed? I liked running the inner hole on the rear arms but felt like the wheels needed to be out further…
no I haven’t
hi Tebo, was wondering if you could suggest a rear motor rb6 setup for OCRC? heading there for reedy race and just not a fan of mid motor.
I haven’t ran rear motor in a very long time. Sorry