Hi Jared, thanks for sharing your WC setup. Have a few questions that I hope you can answer. I’m new to 1/10 so please excuse my ignorance.
1) What piston did you use? I can’t seem to find any Kyosho piston that has such spec.
2) What do you mean my Limiters? And where is the in and where is out.
3) For the gear diff, did you run the following KYOUM610 or KYOVZW424?
Thanks! Hopefully it is not to much to bother you.
PS: Now let’s aim for the 1/8 nitro WC! I know you can do it!
No worries. The pistons are just drilled. Kyosho sells blank pistons. I think they are going to start selling different pre drilled ones. I’m trying to get them to at least.
The limiters are in the shock. Inside means to limit the down travel. They going between the piston and the shock cartridge. Outside limits up travel. They would go on the shock shaft between the cartridge and the shock end.
Gear diff was just the RTR SC diff. Not sure on part number. It didn’t really fit that well, I’m guessing they will make a race version that is a little more legit.
The 1/8 WC is the next item on my list!!!!! I’ll be giving it all I have next year
Wow, was not expecting you to reply so early. Thanks for replying. It is nice for amateur drivers like us to be able to ‘speak’ to you guys! Btw, the SC diff gear is KYOVZW424 (part number). Just in case other rb6 drivers need them. I’ve got all my parts in (including the options!) Now just need to wait for the shorty batt to be available!! and I can’t wait to build them. Will be following 100% (or as close as I can get) of your setup and will adjust from there. Thanks!
Hi Jared,
What is the brand of the pistons do you use in your BB shocks ?
Bruno
Hey Jared good luck this weekend! I see your using the clear x-rings instead of the red ones are these better?
Yeah the clear ones are smoother.
Hey Jared, how do those pistons compare to the 4×55 we have been running? What difference do you feel?
Not really too sure. After Nats I didn’t like my car. I wanted to try what the AE guys were running. At Nats, my car didn’t land, settle, and then turn good. It wanted to just bounce and flip. It seemed to help it settle better.
Hey JT, what differences do you feel between those pistons vs the 4×55?
That’s what I figured as well, it seems with the 4×55 you have to be very precise and if you aren’t the pack is a bit off causing some stability issues. The AE cars at my track seem to be able to land more plush all over. I will try yours! Thanks.
Great work Jared! I am racing carpet track in Houston (96×50). With som small jumps and switchbacks… We run spec tires… Schumacher mini pins and staggered ribs in front… For a good RB6 base set up, would you recommend a set up similar to your worlds set up? Do u have a good base carpet set up or a recommendation where I could get one? Thanks in advance!!
Justin
I’m not too sure. I’ve never ran on carpet before. You could check out petite RC. They have setups from people that race on carpet. I would think the worlds setup would be ok though. Sorry I’m not much help there
Hi Jared,
Congratulations for your World title and succes in the Reedy Race Truck!
I have 2 small questions, I hope you can help me.
1)Are the rear shock ball end part #462h?
2) I tried to put clear x-rings in the shock. When I pull down shock shaft, it comes back alone. It doesn’t happen with standard o-ring. Is there a tip/trick to assemble shocks with x-rings?
Thank you in advance.
Yes the rear shock ball is IF462H
I’m a little confused on your question about the x-rings. After you bleed the shock, you pull down the shaft, then it pulls itself back into the body? If that’s the issue, that’s fine. You build the shocks the same way with the x-rings as the regular o-rings.
Thank you for your answer.
The issue with shocks is the one you described.
I will try to build again my shocks.
Thanks again for your help and sorry for my poor english.
Hi Jared,
Do you know if Kyosho is going to sell the replica version of your RB6 such as a WC version ? Would be great. And congratulations again for your title !
Bruno
I’m not really sure. If they do and I hear about, I’ll for sure post about it on here
Hi Jared,
Can I know do you punch holes on the tires (front and rear) like those 1:8 buggy tires? If you do, how many holes do you punch?
Thanks
I use a leather hole punch. I put two holes in each tire
Thanks Jared!
Hi Jared,
I am building my son’s RB6 and will be installing the gear diff with 5000 wt.oil. My question is what grease do you use to lube/seal the diff. Some people are complaining that the diffs are leaking. Some are using the Kyosho diff o-ring grease (KYOXGS151) on the gasket. Any build tips for the gear diff would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
I use a KYOSHO seal grease. It’s red, mainly for 1/8. The main issue with leaking is when you over fill the diff with oil. Put in the bottom large gear, then the two sets of cross gears, then fill it up with oil. Then put the other big gear on top. Turn the out drive some to get the oil in all the areas. You don’t want oil to be above the flat side of the big gear on top. Just use your finger to swipe the extra oil off. That should help the leaking. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks so much for your reply.
Do you use the grease on the gasket as well?
Also, are you using the steel gears?
Mark
Yeah you only put the grease on the gasket. I used machined gears at the worlds, I think from our nitro touring car. At reedy truck I used cast RTR gears. My sc was fine, but my other set seemed to have a loose mesh right away, and they stripped. Kyosho is already working on a new race version gear diff.
Hi Jared i was wondering why you always use the rb5 rear arm and what track conditions would you run the rb5 vs the rb6 rear arm?
I pretty much always run the flat (rb5) rear arm. I drive really round around the track, and with the RB6 arm, I have a problem exiting the turn. I just can’t get the feel I want coming off the corner. I always end up back at the flat arm. Someone that drives really point and shoot, they won’t notice it as much.
I tried the 521-1s last night with my normal medium length and 27.5 droop. I went 3 tents faster on hot lap and was able have more rear end lock when sliding hard into a corner. I wonder if more droop has to be run on the rb6 arms since it lowers the rear end so much. All I did was adjust ride height. I had a problem with entry slide with the stock arms.
Hi Jared, have you ever done a Front to Rear weight measure on your car? I’m curious how your current setup would be in that category. I have mine at 62% with a short servo and a short servo pushed back with the RT6 “stopper piece” as I like to call it.
Yeah I do mess around with that a little. I did a lot of weight balance testing before the worlds.
Did you find a percentage that worked best overall?
Hi Jared, Merry Christmas to you and your family! I purchased the Orion VST 2 Pro 6.5 turn for my son as a Christmas present. We have the RB6 with the same stock gearing you ran at worlds with a 20 tooth pinion as well. I noticed your setup sheet on the Orion website shows you ran no boost or turbo with this motor. The motor has 11 hash marks and the pointer on our motor is exactly on the middle hash mark. My question is, on what hash mark did you set your can timing to? Thanks
I ran in the middle hash. That is zero timing. Are you guys racing on carpet or astro? If it’s dirt, a 6.5 will be very fast. Have a Merry Christmas as well
We are racing on a high bite dirt track. I checked the motor and the timing is at 0 degrees out of the box, so I will try it with no boost or turbo added. If the motor proves to much for him I could always retard the timing on the can or reduce my end point on the throttle channel in the radio. Thanks for the help!
Hi Jared. We ran the new Orion 6.5 VST 2 Pro in our RB6 with the same profile in our Orion R10 pro speed control you ran at worlds. After a battery pack the only setting we changed was to lower our punch from “5” to “3”. I think it is a very smooth motor with great versatility. Very easy to tame down when conditions call for it.
Question: Which optional shock O-rings do you run? The clear grooved O-rings or the orange grooved O-rings?
My son and I thank you for your help.
Awesome to hear. I wouldn’t go lower than 3 on the speedo. It will not be linear lower than that.
I run the clear x-ring
Hi Jared do you use throttle expo on your radio?
Also I run on a low traction bumpy track. What setup would you recommend for mid motor?
I don’t use any expo. My local indoor track is a little bumpy and med to low grip. I run pretty much my worlds setup, but with 5 hole pistons, 35/30 oil, and the the Ackerman in the standard position
Thanks Jared for the help also should I leave the holders as you run or try a narrow setting to lock the rear end in?
I would run them as I did in my worlds setup. I don’t really ever adjust that. Make sure you run 3.5 degrees toe. I run it in the arm mount. If you run the plastic arm mount, then run .5 degree hubs
jared, do you have a good set up for OC/RC in LA? its where the Reedy race is this year…. do you know if they run mid motor or rear? i was going to be there in a couple weeks and wanted to take the car and give it a try
I will post my CRCRC setup. I think it will be great for OCRC and that’s what I plan to start with at Reedy. Mid motor will be good there.
Jared would you say that you run the pistons based on grip?
5 hole on loose to medium
4 hole 1.3 on medium high
1.4×3 1.6×2 on high bite?
I tried the worlds pistons on my track and they had too much pack but I’m curious if the 5 holes would work as I’ve never tried them. I run 35/27.5 pink/white with the 4×1.3s
Yes exactly. Your chart is spot on with my thoughts.
I do find a 5 weight difference in oil front to back works best most places. Also when I try a white rear spring, it seems to loose grip and it squats too much and makes the rear just dump and get pulled around mid turn.
Thanks! I will try going to a 5 wt difference bad golds to see what that does.
Have you tried the new chassis yet?
I haven’t tried the new chassis
Hi Jared thanks for being so accessible with your knowledge. It would great if you could post your home track setup. I know u said to use the worlds setup with a few changes, but curious about chassis flex screws and suspension setup
JTP RC 
Hi Jared, thanks for sharing your WC setup. Have a few questions that I hope you can answer. I’m new to 1/10 so please excuse my ignorance.
1) What piston did you use? I can’t seem to find any Kyosho piston that has such spec.
2) What do you mean my Limiters? And where is the in and where is out.
3) For the gear diff, did you run the following KYOUM610 or KYOVZW424?
Thanks! Hopefully it is not to much to bother you.
PS: Now let’s aim for the 1/8 nitro WC! I know you can do it!
No worries. The pistons are just drilled. Kyosho sells blank pistons. I think they are going to start selling different pre drilled ones. I’m trying to get them to at least.
The limiters are in the shock. Inside means to limit the down travel. They going between the piston and the shock cartridge. Outside limits up travel. They would go on the shock shaft between the cartridge and the shock end.
Gear diff was just the RTR SC diff. Not sure on part number. It didn’t really fit that well, I’m guessing they will make a race version that is a little more legit.
The 1/8 WC is the next item on my list!!!!! I’ll be giving it all I have next year
Wow, was not expecting you to reply so early. Thanks for replying. It is nice for amateur drivers like us to be able to ‘speak’ to you guys! Btw, the SC diff gear is KYOVZW424 (part number). Just in case other rb6 drivers need them. I’ve got all my parts in (including the options!) Now just need to wait for the shorty batt to be available!! and I can’t wait to build them. Will be following 100% (or as close as I can get) of your setup and will adjust from there. Thanks!
Hi Jared,
What is the brand of the pistons do you use in your BB shocks ?
Bruno
Hey Jared good luck this weekend! I see your using the clear x-rings instead of the red ones are these better?
Yeah the clear ones are smoother.
Hey Jared, how do those pistons compare to the 4×55 we have been running? What difference do you feel?
Not really too sure. After Nats I didn’t like my car. I wanted to try what the AE guys were running. At Nats, my car didn’t land, settle, and then turn good. It wanted to just bounce and flip. It seemed to help it settle better.
Hey JT, what differences do you feel between those pistons vs the 4×55?
That’s what I figured as well, it seems with the 4×55 you have to be very precise and if you aren’t the pack is a bit off causing some stability issues. The AE cars at my track seem to be able to land more plush all over. I will try yours! Thanks.
Great work Jared! I am racing carpet track in Houston (96×50). With som small jumps and switchbacks… We run spec tires… Schumacher mini pins and staggered ribs in front… For a good RB6 base set up, would you recommend a set up similar to your worlds set up? Do u have a good base carpet set up or a recommendation where I could get one? Thanks in advance!!
Justin
I’m not too sure. I’ve never ran on carpet before. You could check out petite RC. They have setups from people that race on carpet. I would think the worlds setup would be ok though. Sorry I’m not much help there
Hi Jared,
Congratulations for your World title and succes in the Reedy Race Truck!
I have 2 small questions, I hope you can help me.
1)Are the rear shock ball end part #462h?
2) I tried to put clear x-rings in the shock. When I pull down shock shaft, it comes back alone. It doesn’t happen with standard o-ring. Is there a tip/trick to assemble shocks with x-rings?
Thank you in advance.
Yes the rear shock ball is IF462H
I’m a little confused on your question about the x-rings. After you bleed the shock, you pull down the shaft, then it pulls itself back into the body? If that’s the issue, that’s fine. You build the shocks the same way with the x-rings as the regular o-rings.
Thank you for your answer.
The issue with shocks is the one you described.
I will try to build again my shocks.
Thanks again for your help and sorry for my poor english.
Hi Jared,
Do you know if Kyosho is going to sell the replica version of your RB6 such as a WC version ? Would be great. And congratulations again for your title !
Bruno
I’m not really sure. If they do and I hear about, I’ll for sure post about it on here
Hi Jared,
Can I know do you punch holes on the tires (front and rear) like those 1:8 buggy tires? If you do, how many holes do you punch?
Thanks
I use a leather hole punch. I put two holes in each tire
Thanks Jared!
Hi Jared,
I am building my son’s RB6 and will be installing the gear diff with 5000 wt.oil. My question is what grease do you use to lube/seal the diff. Some people are complaining that the diffs are leaking. Some are using the Kyosho diff o-ring grease (KYOXGS151) on the gasket. Any build tips for the gear diff would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
I use a KYOSHO seal grease. It’s red, mainly for 1/8. The main issue with leaking is when you over fill the diff with oil. Put in the bottom large gear, then the two sets of cross gears, then fill it up with oil. Then put the other big gear on top. Turn the out drive some to get the oil in all the areas. You don’t want oil to be above the flat side of the big gear on top. Just use your finger to swipe the extra oil off. That should help the leaking. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks so much for your reply.
Do you use the grease on the gasket as well?
Also, are you using the steel gears?
Mark
Yeah you only put the grease on the gasket. I used machined gears at the worlds, I think from our nitro touring car. At reedy truck I used cast RTR gears. My sc was fine, but my other set seemed to have a loose mesh right away, and they stripped. Kyosho is already working on a new race version gear diff.
Hi Jared i was wondering why you always use the rb5 rear arm and what track conditions would you run the rb5 vs the rb6 rear arm?
I pretty much always run the flat (rb5) rear arm. I drive really round around the track, and with the RB6 arm, I have a problem exiting the turn. I just can’t get the feel I want coming off the corner. I always end up back at the flat arm. Someone that drives really point and shoot, they won’t notice it as much.
I tried the 521-1s last night with my normal medium length and 27.5 droop. I went 3 tents faster on hot lap and was able have more rear end lock when sliding hard into a corner. I wonder if more droop has to be run on the rb6 arms since it lowers the rear end so much. All I did was adjust ride height. I had a problem with entry slide with the stock arms.
Hi Jared, have you ever done a Front to Rear weight measure on your car? I’m curious how your current setup would be in that category. I have mine at 62% with a short servo and a short servo pushed back with the RT6 “stopper piece” as I like to call it.
Yeah I do mess around with that a little. I did a lot of weight balance testing before the worlds.
Did you find a percentage that worked best overall?
Hi Jared, Merry Christmas to you and your family! I purchased the Orion VST 2 Pro 6.5 turn for my son as a Christmas present. We have the RB6 with the same stock gearing you ran at worlds with a 20 tooth pinion as well. I noticed your setup sheet on the Orion website shows you ran no boost or turbo with this motor. The motor has 11 hash marks and the pointer on our motor is exactly on the middle hash mark. My question is, on what hash mark did you set your can timing to? Thanks
I ran in the middle hash. That is zero timing. Are you guys racing on carpet or astro? If it’s dirt, a 6.5 will be very fast. Have a Merry Christmas as well
We are racing on a high bite dirt track. I checked the motor and the timing is at 0 degrees out of the box, so I will try it with no boost or turbo added. If the motor proves to much for him I could always retard the timing on the can or reduce my end point on the throttle channel in the radio. Thanks for the help!
Hi Jared. We ran the new Orion 6.5 VST 2 Pro in our RB6 with the same profile in our Orion R10 pro speed control you ran at worlds. After a battery pack the only setting we changed was to lower our punch from “5” to “3”. I think it is a very smooth motor with great versatility. Very easy to tame down when conditions call for it.
Question: Which optional shock O-rings do you run? The clear grooved O-rings or the orange grooved O-rings?
My son and I thank you for your help.
Awesome to hear. I wouldn’t go lower than 3 on the speedo. It will not be linear lower than that.
I run the clear x-ring
Hi Jared do you use throttle expo on your radio?
Also I run on a low traction bumpy track. What setup would you recommend for mid motor?
I don’t use any expo. My local indoor track is a little bumpy and med to low grip. I run pretty much my worlds setup, but with 5 hole pistons, 35/30 oil, and the the Ackerman in the standard position
Thanks Jared for the help also should I leave the holders as you run or try a narrow setting to lock the rear end in?
I would run them as I did in my worlds setup. I don’t really ever adjust that. Make sure you run 3.5 degrees toe. I run it in the arm mount. If you run the plastic arm mount, then run .5 degree hubs
jared, do you have a good set up for OC/RC in LA? its where the Reedy race is this year…. do you know if they run mid motor or rear? i was going to be there in a couple weeks and wanted to take the car and give it a try
I will post my CRCRC setup. I think it will be great for OCRC and that’s what I plan to start with at Reedy. Mid motor will be good there.
Jared would you say that you run the pistons based on grip?
5 hole on loose to medium
4 hole 1.3 on medium high
1.4×3 1.6×2 on high bite?
I tried the worlds pistons on my track and they had too much pack but I’m curious if the 5 holes would work as I’ve never tried them. I run 35/27.5 pink/white with the 4×1.3s
Yes exactly. Your chart is spot on with my thoughts.
I do find a 5 weight difference in oil front to back works best most places. Also when I try a white rear spring, it seems to loose grip and it squats too much and makes the rear just dump and get pulled around mid turn.
Thanks! I will try going to a 5 wt difference bad golds to see what that does.
Have you tried the new chassis yet?
I haven’t tried the new chassis
Hi Jared thanks for being so accessible with your knowledge. It would great if you could post your home track setup. I know u said to use the worlds setup with a few changes, but curious about chassis flex screws and suspension setup